In September 2006, Nastawgan Network members Neil Caswell and Mike Murphy explored and re-opened all portages that are a part of the ancient nastawgan travel routes of the little used Canton Lakes South Loop. A side trip off of the more traveled Canton Lakes Route; it connects Virginia and Stiles Lakes via Canton, Wendaban, Red Dragonfly, Chicot and an unnamed lake. This loop could be an alternative to the more heavily traveled Temagami, Diamond and Obabika lakes. We traveled this route heading west from Sharp Rock Inlet on Lake Temagami.

Day 1
Arriving in Temagami after the long drive north, we caught a short flight with Lakeland Air up to Sharp Rock Inlet under blue skies and over mirror-like waters. Our first night was spent on Thunderhead Lake with only the sound of warblers and the wind in the pines. We looked forward to discovering some new country in the coming days.

Day 2
Our first full day found us clearing a major blow down that obstructed a steeper section of the trail into Virginia Lake. From Virginia Lake, the trail leading into the South Loop breaks off from the portage that heads west to James Lake. The junction comes shortly after the beginning of the trail, at the base of a steep section. There we headed south towards a small waterfall and followed the trail up a gentle slope as it led along a wetland to the put in at a small beaver dam on Canton Lake. Just the slightest breeze from the north wrinkled the water’s surface as we paddled the east shore of this small lake hemmed in by pine and black spruce.

We located the trail into Wendaban Lake (260m) in the southern bay. We brushed and cleared blow down as the trail gently rose and fell to Wendaban Lake.

Wen-da-ban was a prominent conjuror or spiritualist from Bear Island who also was known to trad e furs for flour. He lived in a log cabin on Lady Evelyn Lake near Sucker Gut Lake. Robert Bell of the Geological Survey of Canada used Wen-da-ban’s knowledge of the area and his maps in his 1880 survey of Temagami. The lake itself beckons you with its granite domes thrusting upwards to the sky, showing evidence of the earth’s creative forces. There is the potential for some campsites along the eastern shore. As we carried on we located the nastawgan to Red Dragonfly Lake in the southwestern corner of the lake. The trail was brushed and cleared of blow down and courses a distance of 420m. There is a short section at the end of this carry that travels along the shoreline to a high water put in.

Our home for the next two nights was a campsite on a point located along the eastern shore of Red Dragonfly across from a large island. A great base, for our trail rehabilitation work to Chicot, the unnamed and Stiles Lakes, the campsite suitable for two to three tent s, showed evidence of minimal use. Nestled in a stand of red pine, it had a smooth granite dock to cradle a canoe or for lying on you’re back to take in the night sky.

The evening found me alone and exploring the dried up creek bed that lies just south of the campsite. I walked the smooth boulders avoiding leaving any footprints in this pristine environment. I veered to the west and followed the contour of a knoll studying the byway of the forest dwellers. As the light was fading I turned back for camp.

Day 3
The trail to Chicot Lake (950m) was located with a careful eye on the far western shore of Red Dragonfly Lake just west of the large island. The trails first step is steep and slippery. Shortly the trail levels off and you will encounter a dry pond, stay to the left (south) and follow the marked trail for roughly 150m until you come to the next pond. We walked on the north side of this pond to the far side where we flagged the trail up an incline. As you level off you will walk out of the forest path into a bog. We stopped and observed the condition of the ground to determine the best route. We followed a faint trail through the vegetation that the centuries have left to build up in this cool microhabitat. As we were moving slowly to stay the course we came a cross a slightly faded piece of flagging tape on a small black spruce. Evidence that we are following the path of recent travelers. We worked at a comfortable pace clearing and brushing as we made our way along the trail. As we neared the three quarters mark of the trail, Mike noticed what appeared to be an overgrown tote road. My research indicated that the Murphy Lumbering Company operated in the area up until the late forties. We found several large stumps scattered in the forest, with many large red and white pine standing guard. Modern harvesting practices would decimate the remaining forest scarring the historical and sacred essence of the area, robbing future generations of this old growth. We continued on until we arrived at Chicot Lake were we rested from our labors.

It feels good to be back in the canoe and enjoying the perfect weather, as we make our way north on Chicot Lake. Scanning the shoreline we walked up into the forest to look at some huge trees that the lumberman’s axe spared. Listening I could hear the music being pitched high in the tufts of the pines as they have done for ages. Back on the water we passed some large boulders in the water tha t mark the way into the narrow bay in the northeast end of the lake. Here we found the portage heading to the unnamed lake. Three logs lying in the shallow water make for a rock free landing. The trail starts off straight and appears well trodden by animals for the first 60-80 meters. We cleared some blow down and brushed and marked the rest of the trail that measures 350 meters. As you near the end of the trail you are afforded a good view of the unnamed lake from a high point before dropping steeply along side of the hill to the waters edge.

The lake is ringed with iron oxide stained rocks and like all the lakes in this area is very clear. There is the potential for a campsite near the flat rocks in the northeast section of the lake on the western shore near where the portage leads to Stiles Lake.

The trail to Stiles was located on Chicot with weathered logs lying in the water once again to mark the landing. We expected and did find the trail in rough shape fro m the report given by C_Mel from their spring trip through the Cantons. We cleared the blow down that choked the trail and did some brushing. The trail must be negotiated with care in sections as the lichen covered rocks and depressions can make for an ankle-twisting experience. The portage runs parallel to a ridge. Here you will see large chunks of rock that have fallen from the fortressed wall that rises above the trail. We were tempted to follow a path near the Stiles Lake end of the portage that climbed its way up the elevation for an eagle’s view but decided to head back to camp. We enjoyed a refreshing swim and the comfort that comes from a good day’s travel. The evening was topped off with a good meal and lightening of the wine skin. A perfect ending to a great day.

Day 4
We packed up camp and left the beautiful Red Dragonfly Lake to head to Bob Lake. We did a little more flagging and finished measuring the rehabilitated portages before setting off onto Stiles Lake. Investigating an old cabin on Log Lake, we found the place in a total mess both inside and out. To the rear of the cabin a well worn road lead back to the logging road.

This evening on our way back from a paddle and exploration of the old logging ruins near Bob Lake we were fortunate to hear the wolves howl. Our thoughts as we sat beside the fire turned to future trips and the Changing of the Seasons celebration at Obabika Lake.

Notes:
Map Obabika Lake 1:50 000 41 P/1

This route was well traveled by us with the portages between Red Dragonfly and the unnamed lake walked seven times by each of us and from the unnamed lake to Stiles five times each. It is not my usual practice to use flagging tape but we used it extensively especially on the trail from Red Dragonfly to Chicot. You can expect the tape to last for approximately five years.

The bog section on the trail from Red Dragonfly to Chicot displayed a large amount of animal tracks.

All the lakes were in pristine condition.
All measurements were done by rope.
Logging roadwork is underway (culverts, grading) to the south of these lakes outside of the Bob Lake Conservation Reserve as reported to us by the pilot.