Paradise Below Zero:  Temagami Style

February 2009

Chee-Skon-Abikong. I’ve always had a special connection with this little lake, nestled deep in the Temagami wilderness.

Although I had visited this area many times during the summer months, I had never had the opportunity to experience it during the winter, so I packed my bag, laced up the mukluks, and off I went, to experience Temagami under a blanket of snow.

The portage into Chee-Skon proved more difficult than I had expected. Of course, I knew it was mostly uphill, having walked it many times during the paddling season, but when the trail is obscured by a few feet of snow, it is even more challenging. Add to this challenge the fact that I was on snowshoes and carrying a 65lb pack and this trail had me stopping to catch my breath on more than one occasion. Numerous downed trees also slowed my progress, but this slow progress allowed me time to soak in the natural beauty of the surrounding forest. It’s funny how a familiar place can appear so different when covered with a heavy blanket of snow.

Before long, the lake came into view. Chee-Skon-Abikong, or "Place where the rock stands". This really is my favorite location in all of the Temagami backcountry, and it appeared even more beautiful in winter. I had intended on setting up camp somewhere deep in the bush to protect myself from the wind, but the sun was shining so bright, I couldn’t help but set up on a nice South-facing point, halfway up the lake. I pitched the tent, gathered some firewood, and cooked up some grub, all while basking in the warmth of the mid-winter sun. Later, I made my bed on a thick layer of fresh balsam boughs and drifted off into a deep sleep for the night.

I spent the next few days hiking in the spirit forest, visiting spirit rock, and just tending to the seemingly endless list of chores that go along with winter camping: gathering firewood, baking bannock, melting snow for drinking water, airing out the sleeping bag, and then gathering more firewood. It’s been said that gathering firewood warms the winter camper 3 times: Once to gather it, once to cut it up, and finally, when you burn it. These days spent at Chee-Skon were relaxing, invigorating, and above all, peaceful. The serenity of the Spirit Forest has a calming effect on many people who are fortunate enough to spend a few days in it, and this has always been true in my case. The wind through the ancient pines, and the loud ‘crack’ of the lake ice were the only sounds to be heard for days.

On the morning of my planned departure from Chee-Skon, I awoke to a light snowfall. I’m always astounded by how quiet the forest is during a snowfall like this one. Absolute silence. I spent an hour or so sitting around the morning campfire, sipping cedar tea, and just enjoying the peacefulness of this special area. As I packed up camp, the snow started to get heavier. I made my way across Chee-Skon and back downhill through the portage towards Obabika.

Upon reaching the shores of Obabika Lake, I was greeted with an almost blinding snowstorm, reducing visibility to under 1km. I questioned the intelligence of trying to cross such a huge body of water with such compromised visibility, and considered setting up camp at the Tall Pines campsite, and waiting out the storm. However, winter storms like this one have a tendency to hang around for days, so I decided to tackle the open expanse of Obabika during the snowstorm. Once out on the lake, the snowpack was firm underfoot, and my snowshoes became pointless. I quickly took them off, strapped them to my pack, and made the hike on foot. It felt comforting to be walking in moosehide mukluk-clad feet, the way generations of Anishnabai people have done all across this land. I kept the North shore of Obabika within sight, until the faint outline of the West shore became visible, then turned South towards the Mathias Family cabin.

I rounded the point at the mouth of the Obabika River, and made my way into the bay where the Mathias cabin is located. Alex invited me in, and offered me a bowl of freshly made rabbit stew for lunch. As is the case with all my trips in the Obabika Lake area, I had a nice visit with the Mathias family and experienced their warm Northern hospitality. A fitting end to my stay in Temagami.

Interestingly, the rabbit that had ended up in Alex’s stew pot, had some good news to share with us; Alex was excited to show me the pelt from the rabbit – the white fur was already starting to turn brown. Alex assures me that this means an early spring is right around the corner, despite what that pesky groundhog says…

I’m already counting the days.

Mike McIntosh